Media Reviews: Classical Loop-in-Loop Chains

Classical Loop-in-Loop Chains and Their Derivatives
by Jean Reist Stark and J.B. Smith
published by Brynmorgen Press, Portland, ME. 1999. Hard cover, black & white, 9" x 11-1/4", 211 pages, $34.95.

Reviewed by Jeanne Jerousek-McAninch.

First published in 1997, Classical Loop-in-Loop Chains and Their Derivatives, by Jean Stark and her sister Josephine Smith, had a limited number of books printed in the first edition and could not fill the public’s frenzied demands. This insatiable need called for a “re-issue of this classic,” which fortunately Tim McCreight’s Brynmorgen Press announced in 1999. This issue is a treasure for more than just the chainmaker’s library, but also for the metals department libraries of universities, colleges, and schools. This book is a valuable teaching tool that merges neoclassical history with a comprehensive learning experience, covering concept, wirework, and fusing with repetition as the key of perfecting a technique.

As Jean Stark states in her historical overview, the origins of the loop-in-loop chain go back to the early Bronze Age in the Middle East, and this continued to be the predominant chain type used throughout the Classical Period until the end of the Middle Ages. There was a reawakening of classical jewelry techniques in the 18th century due to the world's preoccupation with archeological excavations. Renowned 19th century jeweler, Castellani, first replicated these finds and assimilated the style with contemporary overtones, lasting until the 1880s. Another resurgence occurred in the late 20th century with the popularity of Kulicke-Stark Academy of Jewelry Art in New York City. This takes us full circle to Jean Stark, cofounder of Kulicke-Stark Academy and goldsmith/teacher for 29 years (see “The Guru of Granulation,” page 18, this issue).

One of the user-friendly strengths of this book is the thoughtful organization of the 34-plus chain styles which progress and follow a natural order from the oldest and simplest loop-in-loop to cumulatively more difficult chains. Double to quadruple loop-in-loop to multiple woven loop-in- loop chains, the addition of beads, and the use of forged links culminate in the last chapter, exploring 10 different clasps. With 350 drawings and 45 photographs, an advanced beginner in chainmaking could practically follow the working sequence by looking at Stark’s exquisite (non- computerized) drawings!

The supportive text of the directions has been carefully thought out, streamlined, and “bench tested” by six chainmakers. Each project starts with a list of necessary materials, giving exact amounts of wire/gauge and dowel sizes for a specific chain length. Tools and equipment are discussed in two places: first in a “general information” chapter where the basics of metalsmithing and chain construction are explained, and in the back of the book, where Stark lists equipment, tools, and supplies in a conservative manner that should encourage new students with limited funds. I do think that safety issues should be more thoroughly addressed.

The charts in the book's helpful appendix provide a wealth of knowledge; for example, one helpful chart shows the weight per foot of round wire from fine silver wire and sterling silver to 22-karat gold. There is also a useful 36-term glossary.

This new edition has two dozen changes/additions to the original text. The major physical change is the hard cover with a concealed wire binding, which makes the book lie flat, and the white pages, which better enhance the photos. Classical Loop-In-Loop Chains and Their Derivatives is easy to use with clear directions and precise drawings. I highly encourage the addition of this book to your library!