Media Reviews: Gemstones: Symbols of Beauty and Power

Gemstones: Symbols of Beauty and Power
by Eduard Gubelin and Franz-Xavier Erni
published by Geoscience Press, Tucson AZ, 2000.
Hardback, 9-1/2" x 12", color, 240 pages. $49.95.

Reviewed by June Culp Zeitner.

This is a beautiful and fascinating book about a favorite subject of lapidaries and jewelers. Dr. Gubelin, well known to gemologists, has established a systematic approach for categorizing inclusions in gemstones, invented some gemological instruments, and has written numerous articles and books about gems. Dr. Erni has been a magazine editor and is a writer on scientific subjects, including gemstones. An oustanding contribution to the book is the exceptional colored photographs by Erica and Harold Van Pelt.

Gubelin starts with the characteristics and origins of gem materials. He writes about crystal systems, hardness, toughness, and color. In the well-illustrated part about color, he talks about chemical color, physical color, and optical effect coloration of gem materials. The photo of a bouquet of rhodochrosite crystals surrounded by gleaming spires of rock crystal quartz is breathtaking. The smaller picture of padparascha is exactly what I thought the color should be. The next part tells about mining and processing. There is a world map of major gem deposits from 46 countries. Cutting, polishing, and engraving gemstones is explored and illustrated.

In his complete examination of gem species, Gubelin starts with the big four. This is traditional, but I hope some day a different system is involved that stresses beauty and adaptation to jewelry more than history, legend and lore. For example, green tourmaline, tsavorite garnets and imperial jade usually make more attractive jewelry than most emeralds. The discussion of feldspars emphasizes the growing appreciation of this colorful and shimmering group. Garnets are an exceptional group, rich in history and found in many wonderful deposits. Gubelin notes that no other gemstone has been discovered in recent years in such a wide vareiety of types and colors. Australia and Mexico are given credit for being the two leading suppliers of opal, although new deposits are still being discovered. I was glad to see the sunny peridot given its due. This is another of the underrated excellent greens.

I enjoyed the chapter on quartz. This bright group of gems is perhaps the favorite with the most amateur lapidaries. Tourmaline is worthy of its high praise as a gem, and again, the picture showing both crystals and jewelry is almost unbelievably beautiful.

The next major division is ornamental gems, a traditional subdivision, although it may also be time for that to change. Jade and agate are among the gems included here, as well as some of the newcomers, like sugilite and charoite.

The book was printed in Italy and usually their color is among the best in the field; however, in one instance, malachite, the color in no way did justice to this popular stone colored by copper.

Dr. Erni's contribution to the book begins with the chapter Gemstones, Symbols of Authority and Power. Rich in history, this chapeter is bursting with crowns, orbs, and scepters laden with priceless gems, including some of the world's greatest diamonds. An interesting 18th-century jewel is the Order of the Golden Fleece, where a gorgeous almandine garnet outshines many a ruby. Crosses and other religious jeweled items are showcased. There has been little written about some of these items in books about gems and jewels. These items are fabulous treasures. Unique and outstanding is a quartz crown of the "Mother of God."

The second of the Erni chapters is Beauty, Magic and Medicine. Some of the famous jewels will be unfamiliar to lapidaries and jewelers. Among these are the elaborate jeweled statue of St. George, the jeweled mirror of Marie de Medici, a remarkable antique cameo, and the throne of Boris Godunov, and more.

Seals, Amulets and Talismans covers many ancient customs and superstitions, such as scarabs, signet rings, and the legend of Nonius and his opal.

Dr. Erni chose to describe an updated version of birthstones, which gives the moonstone for June (previous June stones have been agate, pearl, and alexandrite) peridot for August (previously sardonyx was first), and tourmaline replacing opal for October. Zodiac stones and the stones of Aaron's breastplate are also described.

The text returns to Gubelin with his studies of inclusions, a chapter on collectibles, and another on synthetics, composites and imitations.

This book is good to read, to look at, and to show friends to help them understand how huge and involved is this world of gems and jewels, as well as for reference. It will also make an impressive gift for admirers of gems and jewelry, or for clubs and libraries.

June Culp Zeitner, who has been writing for Lapidary Journal since 1956 and joined the editorial staff in 1967, is the author of nine gem and mineral books, and has helped to start the National Rockhound and Lapidary Hall of Fame.