Three Stone Earrings
by Helen I. Driggs
Set in a row for a glamorous look.
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Three Stone Earrings in PDF format
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MATERIALS
26 to 24-gauge patterned sterling sheet
3mm-6mm bezel wire (stone size determines)
22-gauge round sterling wire
Pair of oval faceted prasiolites
Pair of flat backed ruby in zoisite beads
Pair of sugilite cabs
Flux: hard, medium, and easy solder
TOOLS
HAND TOOLS: sawframe and blades, chasing
hammer, bezel pusher, needle files, sanding sticks, thin burnisher, Sharpie, digital
calipers, half round file, triangle file, round mandrel or small dowel, plastic
or rawhide mallet
OTHER TOOLS: flex shaft, polishing tips, cylinder
bur, abrasive wheels, jeweler’s rouge or Zam
SOLDERING TOOLS: torch, tips, striker, soft soldering
block, pickle pot, brass brush
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I made these earrings because I’ve been challenging myself to set at
least a stone a week to keep improving my skills. Setting stones cleanly is hard
work and I think it’s good to practice often. Every time I set a stone it
gets cleaner and easier. The good thing about earrings is that you don’t waste
a lot of metal if you mess up. The bad thing about earrings is that you have to
make two, and usually, they should match.
These are interesting because they combine classic faceted ovals, flat backed
stone beads, and freeform cabochons. The purple and green combo is something that
reminds me of childhood — my favorite elementary school teacher used to
wear a color blocked dress that was like a Mondrian painting of bright purple,
white, and kelly green and I just loved it.
The hardest part of these earrings is fabrication of the step bezels. I’d
do those first, because you won’t want to try them if you are tired. Once
you’ve done all the fabrication, sweat soldering the wire on the back is
so simple — I
was pleasantly surprised at how fast it went.
Opening Photo: JIM LAWSON; Project Photos: HELEN I. DRIGGS
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